05/08/13 Featured Arkansas Photography–Cossatot Falls State Park near Mena Arkansas
- At May 08, 2013
- By paul
- In Featured Arkansas Photography
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Taken with a Canon 1ds-MKII, Zork adapter, 35mm Pentax FA lens, F11, iso 100 for approximately 1 second. The Cossatot River is one of the great scenic spots in the southwestern corner of Arkansas. The Cossatot runs due south and eventually creates Lake Greason. From there is continues to run into Millwood lake, one of the largest impoundments in the southwestern part of the state. This photograph was taken much further upstream in the area known as the six falls. Cossatot Falls is unique to Arkansas rivers as here you will find 6 distinctly different rapids that have cut through the sandstone ridges in different places. Each spot has a unique name, BMF, and the Washing Machine are two of the most famous. This photography is looking back upstream from BMF and features 3 of the falls. I took this shot with a Canon digital camera, with a Zork adapter that allows you to to 3 separate portrait frames as stitches. I then will combine the 3 frames into 1 landscape image. You gain a tremendous amount of resolution by shooting in this format.
04/21/13 Featured Arkansas Photography–Sunrise over Bee Bluff on the Buffalo River
- At April 21, 2013
- By paul
- In Featured Arkansas Photography
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Taken with a Canon 5D MKII, Canon 24-70 lens @ 24mm, Image is a composite of several different exposures. There are times that I will remember more than others on the Buffalo River. This photograph is one of those days as I had a great landscape opportunity on this morning. While everyone else was out chasing the Elk, (which are a bit on the tame side) I found this scene near Roark and Bee bluffs. The trees around this area vary from Maple, Sweet Gum and various Oaks. Most often in the fall in Arkansas the various trees tend to change colors independently and don’t come together to give a great color display. This spot near Steel Creek landing features two of the most prominent bluffs on the upper river and in the fall you can sometimes catch early sunrise shots like this one. There was no wind and just a bit of light fog was rolling across the tops of the trees below the bluff. I was able to shoot this scene only by using several different exposures to catch the bright sun and deep shadows in the foreground. I am now finding that with a Nikon D800 many times scenes like this can be taken with just one exposure due to the extreme dynamic range of the sensor of the D800.
04/12/13 Featured Arkansas Photography–Midday autumn calm along the Buffalo River
- At April 13, 2013
- By paul
- In Featured Arkansas Photography
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Taken with a Nikon D800e, Nion 24mm 1.4 lens @ F7.1 1/250 of a sec shutter speed, iso 200. On this day, the conditions were constantly changing. I had been up on top of Roark Bluff most of the morning, but a large mass of clouds rolled in and pretty much shut things down for the morning. I had gone back to my truck and I was figuring out where to head next when the clouds started to part. The blue sky came out and within 20 minutes all of the clouds were gone! I prefer to have some clouds in the sky when working with large masses of blue since the clouds will help break up the sky and allow for the use of a polarizer on a wide angle lens. If I had just been shooting a solid blue sky, even at 24mm, due to the angle of the sun I would of had the classic dark to light polarized effect that wide angle lenses can create. However on a day like this with muted sunlight, you really want to have a polarizer on since it will make the colors in the leaves really stand out. The polarizer also defeated any refection I was going to get on this shot but I felt it was a fair trade off.
03/31/13 Featured Arkansas Photography–Sunrise over Bee Bluff on the Buffalo River in Arkansas
- At March 31, 2013
- By paul
- In Featured Arkansas Photography
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Taken with a Canon 5D MKII, Canon 16-35mm Lens, 3 exposure raw bracket converted in LR to final image. When you consider the Buffalo River, one the most beautiful times to photograph is fall. The last couple of years, the fall along the Buffalo has been lacking in overall color. There were spots that contained excellent color but for the most part especially along the ridge tops, most of the trees just turned brown. This spot which is featuring two of the most famous river bluffs, Roark and Bee bluffs, has a great line of gum and maple trees at the base of the bluff. On this day, I was there early hoping for a valley full of fog, instead I only found a slight amount in the immediate trees, but with the rising sun and dramatic clouds that were present it still made for a great shot.
03/30/13 Adding a Grip Extension to a Arca Swiss Rm3di–Getting a better handle on things
- At March 31, 2013
- By paul
- In Phase One & Arca Camera
- 0
One of the more unique aspects of the Arca rm3di camera are the orange/yellow horizontal and vertical grips. These grips are made from a smooth plastic material that seems very durable. However the grip for the vertical extension has one rather minor issue, clearance for fingers around the grip. Arca does not allow for any extra height and the stock grip fits flush to the camera body. Also Arca does not allow for a left side grip. This to me is a huge oversight in the design since you can only grip the camera/lens and digital back on the right side. If you are right handed, you have to dedicate your control hand to move the camera around, similar to how a DSLR works. In my workflow, I would like to be able to hold the Arca with my left hand, which would allow me to make easier adjustments, like for tilt, shift, aperture, shutter speed and focus.
The larger issue however is that you don’t have a solid and secure grip when using the stock vertical grip. I have a large hand, but even with a smaller had, there is not enough height to get any purchase on the grip. When you consider the fact that you are holding a camera, lens and a digital back with a value of over 30K, you want to be sure when you grasp the vertical handle that you have a solid purchase. Since the handles designed by Arca don’t have finger indentations, you are looking for the ability to wrap your fingers around the handle and dig into something solid. After I worked with my rm3di for a few months, I realized I needed something more, and I reached out to Rod Klukas, the U.S Arca Rep. Rod informed me that Arca made a “grip extention” and I ordered one immediately.
The Arca rm3di grip extension made from one piece of material. It is concave on the inside which will allow the user to get a very secure grip on the handle. To install it one simply unscrews the current handle and places the grip extension in the same place. The holes line up perfectly and you use the new screws that are included with the grip extension. Then it’s simple process to screw back on the stock Arca grip. Arca has designed a very secure solution here. The grip is angled outward and presses right up against the back of the camera. The fact that it’s angled outwards gets the grip away from the mounted lens and thus your fingers will not be hitting the lens or shutter.
Once it’s mounted, make sure to place the included allen wrench somewhere secure. I just keep mine with the camera body in the case I use. I have had my grip installed now for over a year and I have never had anything come lose. When I installed it I put just a bit of blue thread locker on my threads. The grip extension gives me total confidence when I pick up the rm3di with a Phase One digital back installed. I have carried this camera/digital back combination over pretty rough terrain and in streams with no concerns at all. My only issue is that Arca just don’t include the grip extension with the base price of the camera. The additional cost of the grip extension is approximately $385.00 and you may have to wait a while to get one. I ordered mine from Rod Klukas directly.
Here is a link to Rod’s website: www.Rodklukas.com
03/26/13 Featured Arkansas Photography–Sunset over Sam’s Throne in the Arkansas Ozarks
- At March 26, 2013
- By paul
- In Featured Arkansas Photography
- 0
Taken with a Phase One IQ-180, Schneider 43 Super Digitar lens, F11, iso 100, exposure time 1/30 sec. This was a strange day, as the wind was blowing about 20 to 30 mph and just standing around trying to take the picture was a bit dangerous. Sam’s Throne is a great place to spend a day and or night as there is now a informal maintained campground. Sam’s Throne is the single large hill out in the distance but the entire valley has some wonderful views. I like to try and catch a sunset there working to catch the sun illuminating the throne in the background. This area is frequented by climbers so be prepared to watch some interesting activity on the rocks. The rocks are mainly sandstone and will take on a deep orange yellow color with the sun shining on them. The valley is surrounded by oaks and hickory trees which tend to have great display of fall color.
03/15/13 Featured Arkansas Photography–Night skies over Roark Bluff on the Buffalo River
- At March 15, 2013
- By paul
- In Featured Arkansas Photography
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Taken with a Nikon D800e, Nikon 14-24 Lens @ 14mm, F4.5, iso 400, total exposure time approximately 40 minutes. This shot was taken back in January, but it was a great night to be out shooting the stars. The temperature was around 29 degrees and there was virtually no wind. We started shooting at dark and by about 1 hour into the night we were getting excellent runs. This shot is a composite of 40 minutes taken in 2 1/2 minute exposures at iso 400. I will then stack the exposures to catch the motion and create the trails. The blue sky is due to the moon. If you work with the moon at night you will be pleasantly surprised by the results. It will give a nice blue hue to the sky and also provide all the illumination to the bluff that you see in this photograph. This is not a daylight/nighttime exposure as many people think. This is all done at night with the aid of the moon. As was looking up, it makes the perspective of the trees a bit more interesting, as if they are looking into the photo. I am going to start working at night with a Canon 24mm TS-E for perspective control where it will give me a good enough FOV, which on this shot I needed all of the 14mm I could get. You are looking to feature the sky, but you still want to get as much of the foreground as possible.
03/14/13 Review of the Breathing Color Stretch Relief Pliers
- At March 14, 2013
- By paul
- In Articles/Reviews, Printing & Framing
- 0
04/24/13 I have added some new information to this article in regards to working with the stretch relief pliers and 2″ stretcher bars you can read more about it here:
When working with inkjet canvas, by far one of the most time consuming aspects of the workflow is the process of stretching the canvas. Inkjet canvas is a much more delicate product and requires careful stretching or issues like corner rubbing or tearing/straining of the weave will ruin a finished canvas print. Rework which involves staple removal can ultimately damage an inkjet canvas enough that it has to be reprinted.
For stretching there are two basic methods that I am familiar with, hand stretching with a pair of canvas pliers (most often a pair of Fletcher style) or the use of a stretching machine. Machines take up a lot of space, are expensive and require a fairly large canvas volume to justify their cost. However they do a great job and once you have a workflow down can produce a very even and tight stretch. Pliers on the other hand are tedious and hard on the hands, as most require a constant pressure while stapling. They don’t have a large width so a lot of time is wasted in just working the canvas. Here is an example of such a pair of canvas pliers.
Canvas pliers like these don’t begin to share the expense of a stretching machine but only grab a small amount of canvas and are mostly designed to be used on the non-inkjet canvas. They also require a workflow where you are constantly working around the canvas in a circle in an attempt at keeping even tension while stretching. This style of plier is also really meant to be used with a wider stretcher bar. The 1 ½ inch style bars that are used for most inkjet canvas stretching will not allow this style of plier any purchase as they need to find a fulcrum point to gain leverage on the canvas. The only way in the past to gain this advantage on this type of stretcher bar was with the use of a stretching machine, however with the introduction of the Stretch Relief pliers by Breathing Color, the game has changed dramatically.
These pliers are a combination of a vise grip style of pliers which offers the ability to let the user lock the jaws of the pliers in place on the canvas, thus freeing up the need to constantly force the pliers closed. While making the stretch, the pliers offer adjustable tension with a screw at the back of the pliers. Stretch relief pliers jaws offer a 4.5 inch surface for the canvas. The flat part of the pliers have a set of teeth which will aid in holding the canvas during the stretch and not allow for any slack. The pliers have notches in the back to allow the user to work right over a center support bar and get in right to the edge of the corners. Now for the first time with a set of pliers you have the ability to get a grip right up to the corner with 100% control over the tension which aids tremendously in creating a good finished look to your canvas.
To me, the real key to the design is the notched back of the pliers which will grab at the back of a stretcher bar and create a perfect fulcrum point. The fulcrum allows you to draw back on the canvas with no need for any extra force but two fingers and hold that tension in place while you staple the canvas. You are applying tension to over 4.5 inches of canvas at one time which is over 2.5 times a normal set of pliers. I have found that the best set of stretcher bars for the stretch relief pliers are the 1 ½ inch style. Here is a picture of this style of stretcher bar with canvas wrapped over the bar with a pair of stretch relief pliers.
This style of bar is notched on the backside. The notches are meant for the placement of center and corner supports but the stretch relief pliers will utilize the notch and fit up against the back of the bar. In the middle picture shown above you can see the cut out notches on the back side of the pliers. The third picture shows the pliers up against a center support bar. The recommendation is to allow for 1 ¼ inch of free canvas but I have made great stretches with 1”. Much less than this and the teeth will not bite the canvas and this will allow for slippage.
I feel that the main strength of the stretch relief design is that they act similar to the way a stretching machine works. This is because they allow you to finish one side completely then flip the canvas over and finish the opposite side. Usually I will start with the long side first. The older style pliers are designed to work from the center of the canvas out, and you rotate the canvas each time after you staple. For example starting in the middle on the long side, flip to the opposite side staple there and then do the short side. Repeating the process till you have neared the corners.
I prefer to start my stretch on one long side with 4 temporary staples. I then move to the opposite side, and use the stretch relief pliers to gain purchase and tension. It’s important to standardize on one style of bar and allow a standard amount of extra canvas on all your prints. For example I use a Larson 6011 bar, 1 ½ inch, and on all my prints I add 2 inches of extra printed material. Thus I have the 1 ½ inch width of the stretcher bar covered and have ½ inch printed material to wrap around the back. This allows me to line up the print on the stretcher bar as I know that when I am centered on the bar, I will have ½ inch of white canvas and ½ of printed material.
Once I am lined up, I will lay in the first series of staples. I then move to the opposite side and pull my temp staples and again use the stretch relief pliers to pull the canvas tight and finish that set. Now you have approximately 4.5 inches of canvas down on each long side in the center. I quickly move to the short sides and apply one staple to the top of each corner. I feel this helps keep the canvas from getting waves in it during the stretch. Once this is done I complete one long side, then the other long side. This whole process takes about 2/3 less time as trying to do this with a normal set of pliers. You will tend to forget and run out of staples because you are moving along so fast. Remember on the long sides not to staple all the way to the edge as you still have to form a corner. Once the long side as done, simple flip, pick a short side and finish one then the other. I will then quickly examine the face of the canvas to make sure I don’t have any waves. At this point you are basically done with the stretching. The only process left is the cornering/finishing.
On a corner the notched edges of the Stretch Relief pliers allow you to get right up to the edge of the stretcher bar. Being able to get close like this with the added advantage of the fulcrum allows you to get an even and very tight tension on this key part of the canvas. How one finishes off the corners is up the individual, I prefer to cut out some of the extra material and then tuck the corner over. The Stretch relief pliers will still make a strong enough grip to include this extra material and still provide a tight stretch. This is so important since usually the cornering requires some doubling of the thickness of the canvas. When finished the stretch relief pliers will create an excellent stretch and create a drum tight product.
In summary, the stretch relief solution give the user a similar type of control afforded by a stretching machine. This is possible due to the several design features:
- The greater surface of the pliers
- Teeth which bite and hold the canvas
- Piers which allow the user to free up the hand and don’t need as much constant tension
- The cut out notches on the back edges which allow the ability to get close to opposing edges
- The notch in the center of the back which creates a fulcrum and provides excellent tension
- A screw on the back of the pliers that allows the user to adjust the totally amount of tension
With these pliers you have an equaled amount of control and tension during the stretching process. You are able to do this with just the control of two fingers due to the fulcrum created by the pliers. The time savings and actual relief to your hands from not having to grip and hold the pliers/canvas in place will justify the extra cost of the stretch relief pliers. My only reservation is that the pliers only come with a 6 month warranty. Construction and welds all seems to be very well done and hopefully his warranty period can be extended to 1 year. I feel that by using these pliers you will get a much more professional product which is evenly stretched and better looking than a stretch from conventional 2” pliers. Over the years I tended to lead with paper/matted/framed prints on anything larger than 20” x 30”, but with the advent of the stretch relief pliers I am now much more at ease with larger canvas projects. I will get more work done, which is right the first time and needs no re-tensioning later on or rework.
You can learn more about the stretch relief pliers here: www.breathingcolor.com
03/13/13 Featured Arkansas Photography–January Night skies over Roark Bluff
- At March 11, 2013
- By paul
- In Featured Arkansas Photography
- 0
Taken with a Nikon D800e, Nikon 14-24 lens @14mm F 4.5, iso 400. Image taken in a series of 2 minute exposures and stacked to capture motion. This was my first trip with the Nikon D800e for night photographic capture. I had used the D800e throughout the 2nd half of 2012 but was never able to coordinate a good night for a shoot. I prefer to have a clear night with a 1/2 to 3/4 moon and on the 20th of January in 2013 all of this came together. There was also very nominal wind for the entire night. This particular shot was taken looking downstream so I can featuer Roark Bluff and still capture Bee Bluff, the next bluff down river. All of the on the bluff and riverside trees is from the moon and no light painting was needed. The moon is a wonder ally with night photography, giving you a great blue hue to the sky along with adding just enough illumination to see the foreground details i.e. bluff, trees, etc. I was very pleased with the results of the D800e at night. The 14-24 lens at F4.5 still was extremely sharp and the corners of the shot were very useable. I noticed no coma in the stars and very little chromatic aberration. I used Capture One 7 to convert the raw files and stacked them in Photoshop CS6 to capture the star motion. I then combined various versions of the foreground image until I got the best overall image.